Venice is a suitable town for rain.
Just on the left side across the Rialto Bridge to the market, go to the "Fondamenta del Vin" along the Canal Grande. The restaurant is located in the third path "Calle Madonna".
It's really a small osteria with only about 40 seats. Therefore, it's definitely crowded during high season. The simple and warm interior.
Venice's famous sausage "Musetto". It's good to taste with aromatic wine. Put the mustard!
Antipasto della casa (assorted homemade appetizers) 12 euros. From the left, Marinated octopus and celery, Pate' of Cod and Pickled sardines. It's a combination of classic Venetian Antipasto. Perfectly compatible with the local white wine!
"Bigoli in Salsa" (thick noodle pasta with anchovies and onion sauce). The traditional dish of Venice region. However, I think the Bigoli of this restaurant is the best!!! Please check the difference by your tongue.
Main dish, Trippa alla Parmigiana (tripe stewed in tomato sauce). It was very filling and tasty, of course.
Homemade desert, Baked tart (5 euros). Removing a taste after a meal. It's a typical Dolce of Italian Mamma.
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It was opened in 1998; therefore it's not so old. However it has already become one of the most famous Bacaro (bars) in Venice. Since it's always crowded, you should do a reservation before. Recently, it becomes too much crowded that they can't accept any reservations. In that case you need to go there directly. The atmosphere is very calm and their service is really smooth. Maybe, it's a little bit expensive... For those who are interested in exploring Bacaro in Venice, please visit here all means. |
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It was opened in 1998; therefore it's not so old. However it has already become one of the most famous Bacaro (bars) in Venice.
First of all, please check its strange name. That means "Devil and holy water". Don't you think it's perfect for intricate canals and complex trails of Venice? And the osteria is located three streets behind from the Rialto Bridge. There is an aspect of the refuge.
This time, I went to eat and drink to know the reasons for the popularity of "devil and holy water".
The osteria is located in the "Calle di Madonna (Madonna's path)". Yes, the devil and holy water is waiting for you in the path of the Virgin! This district is very complicated with many paths but let's look for a long queue outside. Even on hot days and on cold days, the locals are happily enjoying chatting with a glass of wine and Cichetti (snacks) in front of the entrance. That would be an evidence of the goodness of this place. Having seen them, my expectation for their food became bigger!!
Particularly it becomes busy at the dinnertime. Reservation will be required. During high season, it's better to go earlier also for lunch, at the opening time. Or it's safe to do a reservation. Since it's a Bacaro-style osteria, people eat little rapidly. Therefore, it's also nice to take an aperitif with Cichetti (snacks) and wait slowly. Standing style doesn't cost the service charge (12%), so you can feel free to eat and drink. If you are not very hungry, it will be enough to eat standing. Prosecco (glass) costs 2 euros, Polpetti (meat dumplings) or fried (meat or fish) costs 1 - 1.5 euro for each piece.
N.B. (February 2010): Since the osteria is too crowded, they cannot accept a reservation even if you call. You might be asked to go there directly. In that case let's wait patiently while drinking a glass of wine.
The inside is very clean, bright and calm. Since the number of seats is approximately 40, it's always full. It's a small restaurant owned by a family. When I went, the owner Mr. Silvano and a young girl served dishes to me. They are very professional and you'll be able to enjoy a pleasant time.
The reason whey the locals love this restaurant is their delicious food, of course. For the appetizer I took "Musetto (sausage)" and "Assorted homemade appetizers". I eat Musetto for the first time, it was really delicious. The juicy gravy and wine made a good chemistry. Assorted appetizer plate was classic Venetian food like "Pate' of cod", "marinated octopus and celery", "pickled sardines". It was delicious with bread!
Pasta dishes of famous restaurants in Venice are really delicious. Good combination of white wine and seafood pasta is worth to try. Spaghetti alle Seppie (spaghetti with squid ink sauce) is recommended for everyone. The other one is "Bigoli in Salsa", the traditional thick noodle pasta with anchovies and onions. It was so-called a "Poor Pasta". However it's quite delicious. Indeed, the Bigoli of this restaurant was the most delicious which I'd eaten in Venice. It's also recommended "Spaghetti con gli Scampi (spaghetti with lobster)".
For the main dish, I ventured to try "Tripe stewed in tomato sauce with Parmesan cheese". The tripe braised in simmering didn't have any bad smell. I knew the tripe cooking was famous in Florence, but also in Venice it's popular.
After the main, I ordered, "baked tart" as dessert. Since I was already full, it was really tough but I couldn't but order it!! It was a typical homemade Italian cake. Please taste it with a cup of Coffee.
The taste is stable so everyone can enjoy delicious food anytime. Indeed it's one of the most popular restaurants in Venice. However, comparing with another Bacaro "Alla Vedova", it's a little bit expensive (about 10 percent). But it's indispensable to taste the local cuisine and atmosphere all means.
| Coperto | service charge 12% |
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| Antipasti Appetizer |
Bis di Baccala' mantecato 9 euros, Sarde in Saor 9 euros, Zuppa Cozze e Vongole 11 euros, Musetto 8 euros, Antipasto della casa, Baccala', Sardi, Polipo 12 euros |
| Primi piatti Pasta |
Spaghetti alle Seppie 11 euros, Bigoli in Salsa 11 euros, Zuppa di Trippe 9 euros, Pasta e Fagioli 9 euros, Spaghetti con gli Scampi 24 euros, Tagliolini ai Frutti di mare 10 euros, Pasta al Pomodoro o Bolognese 9 euros |
| Secondi Piatti Mein dishes |
Bollito della Casa: testina, trippa, musetto 15 euros, Fegato alla Veneziana 15 euros, Seppie ai Ferri 15 euros, Seppie in Nero 15 euros, Fritto misto dell'Adriatico 15 euros, Pesce alla Griglia 17 euros, Trippa alla Parmigiana 12 euros, 牛肉グリル焼きの薄切り15 euros |
| Contorni Side dish |
Verdura di stagione o Insalata mista 4 euros |
| Formaggi Cheeses |
Parmigiano 5 euros, Gorgonzola 5 euros |
| Dolci Desserts |
Dolci della casa 5 euros |
| Name | Osteria al Diavolo e L'Aquasanta |
| Address | S.Polo 561/B-Venezia Italy |
| How to reach | From the Rialto Bridge, go to the Fondamenta del Vin along the Canal Grande. Then follow the Calle della Madonna, it will be found. Though the district is convoluted, try to find a sign of the restaurant. |
| Phone number | +39 041.2770307 |
| Closed | Tuesday and Dinner or Monday |
| Opening Hours | 10:00-15:00 18:00-24:00 |
| Map |
View Larger Map |
Since I'd heard good reputation of this restaurant, I decided to visit here. It was really delicious and satisfying. When I went, it was a low season in March so I could enter without waiting for lunch and for dinner. However it would be nice to take a glass of wine standing outside. It's immediately beside the Rialto Bridge.